He will claim parts of your home as his, and will understand that some parts of the home are yours and thus off limits. Cleaning after the rabbit will be a constant aspect of your life, since rabbits mark their territory with pee and pellets. And wherever you let him roam is going to need to be an easy to clean place, otherwise the entire are will stink up fast. He needs less attention from you, and is there more to look at than cuddle with.
They can be charming and cute on their own, with their fuzzy mugs and that did-I-leave-the-gas-on look about them. You need to think very carefully which pet would be best for you. A rabbit is high maintenance, more than a dog for example. And definitely more than a hamster. A hamster, while low-maintenance, can be sometimes dull compared to the sometimes too lively rabbit. Neither of them are good pets for children, since they require a very patient person to look after them, and to handle them.
This is why having the best travel cage ever for your hamster is going to make things much easier, both for you and your hamster. Travelling with your hamster need to be done with care. The main debate about transport cages in whether you should get a very secure one — like those made of plastic — or a very breathable one, with wire.
Of course you can later use it as a place to keep the hamster while you clean and change his big cage. Just as important, how breathable is the cage? Wire cages are very breathable but are not the most secure. However the plastic cages offer more safety but only have holes in them to allow air to pass through it. The size of the cage does not really matter, in that it can be smaller than the one your hamster lives in. But make sure that he will fit easily into the transporting unit, and you can take him out just as easy.
You pick whichever you think sounds better for you and your hamster. Habitrail OVO plastic transport cage for hamsters This is the kind of cage that will stay securely closed, and your hammy can get inside easily. The two tube endings can be attached to the main cage through, well, tubes so your hamster can use it as an extra home when not traveling. The two endings can be closed off with lids that comes with the cage.
There are enough air holes on the top of the cage, to let the hamster get enough air. It also prevents drafts since the holes will not catch a lot of sideways air.
You can fit a lot of bedding in the lower part of the cage, since it will reach high enough. This kind of cage looks and feels sturdy, and the handle will definitely keep when you travel. A couple of downsides are that if you order it or buy it in a sealed package, you might have to assemble it yourself. The other small downside would be that longer journeys would be a bit more difficult, since there is not much space in this cage.
The air holes do provide some air, but not for 24 hours. You can find it on Amazon here, and check its price as well. Kaytee wire transport cage for hamsters Wire cages are probably your best option for ventilation. But, in this case this cage has more space than the plastic one I talked about earlier. The spacing between these bars is about 1. Both Syrians and smaller breeds like Siberians or Campbells are alright in this kind of cage for transport.
I can see only a couple of downsides to this cage, one being that the bedding can get all over the car in some cases, like if your hamster kicks it around or there is a sharp turn. And second, it is very hard to protect from drafts. You can check out this exact cage on Amazon, and see its price as well.
People have successfully transported small birds like cockatiels and sun conures to the vet in this transport cage, and it seems to be large enough for an adult hamster. This transport cage is hard, thick plastic, and if you offer some amount of bedding and a hideout for your hammy then he should have no problem being relaxed in this cage.
The overall size is Air circulation is good enough, as there are holes on the upper part of the sides of the cage, and in the transparent lid as well. The lid is large, and opens completely, meaning you will have very easy access to your hamster when taking him out. And you will also easily keep an eye on him during travel. The only downside I see to this cage is the height of the cage.
Hamsters love to gnaw on everything, and if yours gets his chompers on the upper part where there are holes, he might nibble at them and make a larger hole.
During travel sudden stops or sharp turns might move the cage and the things inside the cage can hurt the hamster. Also, try and keep the duration and distance as short as possible. Avoid public transport, with loud noises and people bumping into you. Go for an air conditioned car that can get you there fast. There are more things to keep in mind than this, so Teddy and I will get into detail with all of them. But as a reminder: Teddy: Us hamsters are very easy to scare, so try not to rattle, bump, jostle, throw or shake our transport cage, and keep us well ventilated!
The problem is what kind of food and water. Water A water bottle or bowl is not good for transport. Every time your car or train or bus stops, they can leak and get the hamster wet, and possibly ill later on. Cucumbers have very high water content, and are safe for your hamster to eat.
The cucumber will give your hamster enough water to last him the trip and back again, without spilling anything. Best to get several thick slices, and store them in a cool bag. Place a couple of his favorite treats in the cage as well, to make the trip more comfortable for him. Another type of food you should bring is a hard kind of treat for your hamster to nibble on. This is to give him something better than the cage to gnaw on, and also to relieve some of his anxiety.
The best kind of dog treat for hamsters is either the plain kind — with no added flavors — or a milk bone. Milk bones are basically dog treats, but with added vitamins and minerals. Given the size of hamsters, and the size of dog treats, one treat will last your little one a long way. So basically a box of dog treats could possibly last the entire life of the hamster.
For a clear list of what hamsters can and can not eat, read here. Teddy: Hamsters need some simple dry food for transport, and sliced cucumber instead of a water bottle. We love cucumber! Teddy enjoying his dry food from my hand Keeping your hamster comfortable during travel This is a topic just as important as what food you give the hamster when you transport him.
Hamsters are easy to scare, they panic easily, and sometimes looking at your hamster wrong can scare him. I crouched down next to him, slowly, and spoke softly to him. It took him a minute but he was friendly after that. So unless you want your hamster to do something similar when he sees his vet after the trip, please make sure he is comfortable. That means that the cage should be shaken and moved around as little as possible.
If possible, get a taxi or a friend to give you a ride to where you need to get. Do not keep your hamster on the road for more than he needs to be. It will freak him out and he will need some time to recover. Keep the hamster in the dark If possible, make sure that the cage you transport him with is not clear. And sudden movements will still scare them. If you can, cover the cage with something like a blanket to keep it dark. But make sure you do not cover the air holes, so that your hamster can still get enough air.
My Teddy shoved a couple of centimeters of furry blanket in his cheeks when he first laid his paws on one, so be warned. Avoid transporting the hamster in extreme temperatures Unless you absolutely must, avoid transporting the hamster in very cold or very hot times of the year. And also make sure that there is no draft where you keep your hamster during transport. Hamsters are very sensitive to this, and a cold for them is not as easy to shrug off as it is for humans.
This is to keep both you and the hammy safe. The cage needs to sit in place when traveling, and as long as you keep an eye on it, it should be fine.
Try not to keep it on your lap, since it can hurt you in the case of sudden stops or turns. The same goes for keeping the cage in the trunk or at your feet in the car. For this, use new bedding, mixed with bedding from his own cage. Make sure that the used bedding is not soiled or does not have too many droppings. A few droppings are okay, since it will be easier for your hamster to recognize the place as his own.
The bedding you use for his home should have pieces that are from his own home as well. So if your gave your hamster ripped up paper towel to used as nesting material, grab a few pieces from his own home and place them in the transport cage.
What you can use, and what you should avoid. Give the hamster time to adjust Another thing that will help a lot is placing your hamster in the transport cage about an hour before you leave. This way you give him time to get used to his new cage, and he will not be as stressed. The best way to do this is to put the hamster in his exercise ball, and then put the exercise ball open in the transport cage.
Or, place the transport cage directly into his usual cage, and let him explore it like that. This is to make the trip easier for the hamster that needs to be taken to the vet or somewhere specific. And also so that there is less hostility when you bring him back. The new smells on the transported hamster can make the ones left home get a bit aggressive.
So try to avoid that by bringing them all if possible. This will not happen every time, the hamsters at home will not attack the transported hamster each occasion. Teddy: That was a long read, I know! But us hamsters are easy to scare, so extra steps are needed to make us comfortable. Best toys to keep your hamster occupied during travel Obviously, the best toys are the ones he already loves and uses in his cage.
But if they are very large and chunky toys, like blocks of wood, or hide and seek wooden tubes, these are a problem. They are heavy, and in the case of a sudden stop they can injure your tiny hamster.
Things like cardboard, for example toilet rolls, or paper towel rolls or paper egg cartons are fine. Another helpful idea can be a walnut, with a tiny hole in it. Even better would be if your can get a few walnut halves, cleaned, and string them on a piece of string. Try securing it along the edge of the cage, if possible, to make sure it stays in place. Make sure it is something lightweight that will not hurt him if it rolls over during transport.
Best to opt for something made of plastic, very very light weight. Us hamsters are very fragile and need some extra care, even when it comes to our toys!
A word from Teddy Hi! I hope this article managed to clear up a lot of your questions, and you can safely transport my brother or sister. If you want to know more about hamsters, and for example how much we can go without food, or if we need a light on, then check out these other articles! What Noises Do Hamsters Make? Now, we all know hamsters are very quiet creatures and barely make any sounds, at all.
But when they do, you might be at a loss for what they mean. But they all have a specific meaning. Squeaking This is a sound you might hear fairly often from your hamster. What is clear though, is that the hamster is reacting strongly to something, and his opinion is very important and needs to be heard. My Teddy does this weirdly when he sleeps. A very small, angry rubber duck. I think it really depends on the context of that specific moment. As in, so jittery and feverish in their clicking that handling them is not an option.
Hamsters will also click their teeth at each other as a sign to keep their distance. My Teddy is a lone hamster, and he has a big enough cage. When he was younger he used to click his teeth every now and then and take it out on the cage bars. If your hamster is clicking his teeth at you, well, stay away. This is never a good sound, and it will tear right through you.
For example a neighbor came once, with his little girl. Said he wanted to show her the hammy, and she was very curious.
Well, when Teddy was in my hands and the little girl tried to pet him, Teddy started hissing and thrashing, wanting back in his cage. You will also hear this sound from your Dwarf pairs, when they start fighting. Sometimes it might not get very loud, but it can happen. Not many people have heard this sound, but I;m leaving it here anyway, in case your hamster does this. Standing up on his hind legs Hamsters do this when they get curious about something, and they want to hear things out.
They can also freeze in this position, sometimes even for 2 whole minutes. You can find out more about hamsters freezing here. Mouth open, ears back, fur ruffled The hamster is trying to intimidate, and is getting ready for a fight. Like when I leaned over his cage to get something and he saw that as a threat, when I looked down at him he was making himself very big.
When that happens, lower yourself to eye-level with the hamster. Not just your head, your entire body. Hamsters feel threatened by creatures bigger than them, so try to make yourself very small. Talk to him softly until he calms down. Try feeding him a treat to help things along. Rubbing his hips or belly on something This is the hamster simply marking his territory. Syrian hamsters have a scent gland on each hip, while Dwarf types have one on their belly. The hamster will use his scent gland to mark when he believes is his.
The hamster will stumble out of his nest and take a couple of steps before stretching all his limbs, and curling his tail back. He also yawns when he stretches, which reveals a gaping maw of teeth and the entrance to his cheek pouches. It looks awful and he is neither huggable nor fluffy.
The hamster will mind his own business, as always, nothing exciting or extra boring happening. Then he will slowly, in slow motion, start to lay down completely flat and seem to fall asleep, wherever he is. And I have no answer for why he did this.
He opens his eyes and looks at me if I tap the cage. But he goes back to sleep is it sleep? Do Hamsters Attract Mice? So is it the hamster?
Keep in mind that sometimes you might have to ask a professional for help. Table of Contents So do hamsters attract pests? Why pests might show up in the first placeAgain, this has nothing to do with your hamster friend. Keeping your hamster pest-freeConsider calling a professional to deal with a large infestationA word from Teddy So do hamsters attract pests?
No, hamsters do not attract pests. Hamsters do not attract mice, rats, bugs, snakes, or any other creature that might make your guts squirm. This is not true. They are very different species, and will generally avoid each other. The same goes for snakes and bugs.
At all. Why pests might show up in the first place To understand why pests might show up in a certain area, we have to know how pests work. You see, the vast majority of creatures regarded as pests — rodents and insects most commonly — are opportunistic feeders. They eat what they can, when they can, if they can get it. As such, a nice crop of corn, for example, can be decimated by a brood of mice, a murder of crows, or a whole locus infestation.
Well, some food bags in your garage might suffice. Another possibility, if you live in an apartment building: your drawer of snacks can be very inviting. But if the building or neighborhood itself has a problem — like possibly your neighbors 2 floors down having a roach infestation — they you might too. They will choose your home over other homes because it has the most unguarded food.
Again, this has nothing to do with your hamster friend. They sense where the home is most unkempt, and they go there, knowing no one will be in their way. For example our neighbors have a pair of parakeets. They often leave them in their cage outside in the summer, to enjoy the sun and fresh air. Sometimes, it could be about something else, and not food. Pests, especially mice and rats, are incredibly curious. They will poke and prod and push and try every little corner of the plumbing and outside until they will get inside your home.
Keeping your hamster pest-free Alright, now we know why pests show up. Make sure there is no stray food or poop outside his cage. Do not keep the hamster in a side room. So rooms like basement, closet, garage, storage unit, attic are not okay to keep your living, breathing hamster in. Regularly check the areas where the plumbing comes out of the walls.
Like under sinks, bathtubs, drains, etc. So any hidden, dark corner, especially if it connects to a series of tunnels like plumbing for example. For very old houses pests can be a serious problem, since they can infest the walls themselves, and weaken the structure of the house itself. While one stray mouse or bug can be dealt with easily, and entire colony is hard to get rid of. There are certain treatments for insects, or poisons for rats, there are even humane traps.
But they need to be used effectively. This is mostly because of convenience. By this I mean you can always find the correct dosage for poisons online, or how to set up certain traps as well. But the hassle and time spent on ridding your home of pests is best left to people who are meant to do just that. And you can mind your day-to-day life as usual, until things have settled. A word from Teddy I hope you found out what you were looking for here.
We do love to chew though. If you want to know more about us hamsters you can check out the related articles below, to know how to care for us and keep us happy I have a Syrian hammy, and 2 guinea piggies and believe me, there are some very important differences between them.
Feeding requirements for hamsters and guinea pigsExercise and floor time for guinea pigs and hamstersHamster exercise and running routineGuinea pig exercise and floor timeCage requirements are very different between the twoBedding, nests, and objects in their cageTake your schedule and daily life into accountA word from Teddy Deciding between a guinea pig or a hamster That one is completely up to you.
I got a hamster at first, a Syrian male named Teddy. About a year and a half later, we got two piggies from a friend who did not have the time to look after them anymore. Their diet is made of mostly grains, with some fruits, veggies, meat, and nuts added to the equation.
They need fairly large cages a minimum of 24 x 12 inches, and about 12 inches tall. Syrians are the most common hamster you can get as a pet. The Chinese Dwarf has the shortest lifespan, around 1. Some are shorthaired, some have long hair, some have swirls in their fur as a pattern, but their personalities do not vary from one fur type to another Guinea pigs live in herds, one male leading a groups of females.
Pet piggies are usually kept in all male or all female herds, and if males are ever kept with females the male is spayed. Their usual diet is made of timothy hay, along with leafy greens, some root-type veggies, and the occasional fruit.
Guinea pigs have an average lifespan of years, though there have been piggies that lived over 10 years, so getting a piggie is a commitment. For the most part guinea pigs are neither nocturnal nor diurnal. Different temperaments between the two pets Both the hamster and the guinea pig are prey animals.
But the common grounds stop there. There are many differences between hamsters and guinea pigs. When it comes to which would make the best pet for you, you need to take those into account. So, guinea pigs do well in groups or at least pairs. They can have varying personalities, the piggies themselves.
Some are more outgoing, curious, and might come to check you out. It varies from piggy to piggy. The one we have, Ka is a bit more outgoing, and is okay with being held, while Jessi hides most of the time. This is another reason to never keep a lone piggy. He has his own things, and will not share them with anyone. Putting two hamsters together is generally a bad idea, even the Dwarf types. While they may tolerate each other, they usually end up fighting and need to be separated.
Hamsters are also skittish and will try to run away or hide when you try to interact with them. They have no problem biting you if you handle them wrong, or they feel threatened.
Some hamsters are a bit more tame, for example a family friend had a hamster named Oscar. He was the tamest, most relaxed hammy, and he let anyone hold him. Maybe a few select will, but as a whole this is something they learn to associate with food, and nothing more. Kid-friendly or quiet home? Another important aspect, and a possible deal breaker for many people out there. This is because hamsters are very sensitive to everything — the room temperature, the noise level, the light level, drafts, being picked up wrong, being held too long, a sick person, and so on.
Guinea pigs are sensitive too, but much less than hamsters. A hamster can get stressed very easily and develop an entire host of illnesses based on stress. A curious cat or a barking dog can be too much for the hamster, and kids continuously prodding at their cage can be very stressful. A guinea pig on the other hand is more relaxed. For kids I think a guinea pig is the best choice, instead of a hamster.
A rowdy home with many pets and young children is not recommended for piggies, nor for hamsters. Feeding requirements for hamsters and guinea pigs Both the guinea pig and the hamster have very specific feeds.
There is also the question of how often to feed them, and how much. Therefore, watch out with: Too big chunks of food: they may end up in the pockets diagonally, and your hamster will hardly be able to get them out.
Sharp twigs, straws or pointed grains: these can damage the inside of the cheek pouches, therefore infecting them. Sticky food, such as chewing gum and chocolate not recommended for your animal anyway , or peanut butter: that could stick to the dry inside of the cheek pouch. Such inappropriate nutrition can also clog cheek pouches. What to do in case of You can also follow these tips, but always with the doctor's knowledge: An impacted cheek pouch: often the pouch is twisted.
Try to twist it back, by pushing into it very carefully. A clogged cheek pouch: You notice this problem when a cheek pouch seems a bit fuller than normal and is always full, while you feel that the pouch does not contain any hard pieces. Push out the food very carefully. Is this not working and is the bag full for days? Abscesses occur for a few common reasons:. Cheek pouch tumors are another common problem in pet hamsters. Tumors are typically cancerous and usually only affect one of the pouches.
They can infiltrate the entire cheek pouch tissue which stretches all the way back to their shoulders. Pouch tumors are typically firm and have a different feel than a pouch filled with food. These tumors usually squamous cell carcinomas give your hamster a poor prognosis and are difficult, if not impossible, to completely remove while still allowing your hamster to eat normally.
Cheek pouch eversion is very rare but it does occur. Eversion is when the cheek pouch flips out of the mouth. You will see a pink bulge in the corner of the mouth, and your hamster may have difficulty eating. Your exotics vet will be able to replace the cheek pouch, but it may need to be stitched back into place if it keeps popping out. Cheek pouch impactions are another rare problem but it is seen on occasion nonetheless.
Sometimes large pieces of food and bedding are shoved into your little hamster's cheek pouch, and your hamster can't get them out. If an impaction isn't cleaned out, it can get infected or abscessed when the food or food particles start rotting in the pouch. Typically hamsters have no problem moving food in and out of their mouths. However, you should be aware of this issue if your hamster has a large pouch for an extended period of time.
Disorders and Diseases of Hamsters. Merck Veterinary Manual. Oak Ridge Animal Clinic. Miwa, Yasutsugu, and Kurt K. Small Mammals. Elsevier BV , doi Cheek Pouch - an Overview.
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