Canelo vs. Plant, news in MMA. UFC in review. The Messi-Ronaldo debate. Bad Mario Bros. Weekly Crossword. Photo Feature by Astra Medeiros. The Book Club. Department of Theatre Arts performs The Living. Pusillanimity, Price and Pro-Life. Aloofness is out, having emotions is in. A Letter to the Editor. Basement and garage cedar closets are nearly always done with particleboard panels. For some people, the panels might also be used in the bedroom closet because you won't see much of the back wall once all the clothes are hanging in front of them.
Cedar planks are made from knotty wood and are much more attractive than cedar particle board panels. Start with a clean slate.
You can save these components to reinstall after the cedar has been added if you want. Once you are working with blank walls it is relatively easy to cover them with the cedar. Remove cleats, rods and shelves before installing cedar backing to closet. Cover the Walls with Cedar: Cover the walls with cedar planks or cedar chipboard panels — which ever you have decided to use. Many people like to cover the ceiling as well, but this is optional.
The planks are usually tongue-in-groove and install like flooring against the walls. Nail every panel to the studs rather than using glue so that the wood can still expand and contract without weakening the installation. Keep in mind that the cedar is not structural and does not need to provide any support to the closet. If you are using planks, they can be installed vertically, horizontally, on a diagonal, or even in a decorative pattern like herringbone.
The designs are limited only by your imagination. Be sure to leave cut-outs for the light switches or any windows. Do not coat the cedar with polyurethane or any type of finish when you are done. Manage consent. Close Privacy Overview This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website.
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Hold cedar board, tongue side up, at the bottom of the wall. Position a level on top of the tongue and level the cedar. Open a compass or scribe to match the largest gap between the cedar board and the baseboard or floor, then lock it in position. Run the point of the scribe along the baseboard, letting the pencil draw on the cedar board. This will transfer the slope to the wood.
Clamp the board securely to a work surface. Using a jigsaw, rip the board along the scribe line. Dry-fit the board to check the cut. Apply a zigzag bead of construction adhesive to the back of the board. Press it in place from center to edges to spread the adhesive evenly. Using a pneumatic brad nailer, nail through the tongue at each stud location, angling the fasteners about 45 degrees down to keep them from getting in the way of the next board's groove when you lock it over the tongue.
Start at one end of the board and move evenly across the tongue, checking for level as you go. Once the first course is in place, measure the length of the wall before installing each row and, using a miter box and handsaw, cut the boards to fit. Many boards have a rabbet on either end so they can interlock with the next board in the row. If possible, use the off-cut of one board to start the next row, so the two boards interlock. Dry-fit each row before installation.
Apply a zigzag bead of adhesive to the back of the board. Tip the groove of the board over the tongue of the last row to fit them together. While the adhesive is still wet, check the board for level and make adjustments as necessary.
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